Degree Fahrenheit

October 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Motonari Ono

October 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Vika Gazinskaya

October 19, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Though you might think it to see the scribbled clouds and raindrops all over her new collection, Vika Gazinskaya was emphatically not having a depressive episode when she designed her clothes for Spring ’13. Rather, the Moscow-based Gazinskaya explained, she found herself traveling quite a bit this past year, and the sketched skies are a record of the things she saw from airplane windows.


Gazinskaya is one of the most interesting designers to come out of Russia, emerging with a fully formed aesthetic when she debuted her label five years ago. Her clothes are sculpturally ladylike and a little silly; she brings a certain naïveté to bear on her collections, but they shouldn’t be mistaken for naive. There’s a ton of design sophistication undergirding her signature doodle prints, which this season have developed into doodle jacquards. She also has a taste for surreal exaggeration. Plenty of hard thought about patternmaking went into the creation of the giant ruffle running along the collar and sleeve of a cloud jacquard cocktail dress, for instance. Likewise, a flounced shift with a storybook landscape patchworked across it revealed elaborate construction: The flounce was asymmetric and the patchworking built the garment as opposed to being appliqu&#233d on top of it.

But Gazinskaya also has it in her to be straightforwardly appealing. This season, she’s got a surefire hit on her hands in the form of her tweed bell dresses, which came in a strapless white and a black tank version. Likewise, a simple gray shift with two oversized ruffles—one at the waist and one at the hem—mixed cuteness and elegance in just the right proportion. You could imagine the iconic, Breakfast at Tiffany’s-era Audrey Hepburn in that dress—and, actually, it wasn’t too hard to imagine her wearing Gazinskaya’s cloud turtleneck and wavy raindrop skirt, either. Humor and chic can sometimes go hand in hand.
—Maya Singer
Runway Feed

Surface to Air

October 18, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Season after season, Surface to Air nails what quietly confident, cool girls want to be wearing at the moment. On-trend without being overtly so, the cult Paris brand’s new Spring collection includes boxy, military-inspired parka jackets loaded up with utility pockets (no purse required), as well as shrunken, patchwork denim jackets and second-skin stovepipes similar to those the fashion set is coveting from Phillip Lim’s recent outing. Priced to ring in at around $ 220, the S2A jeans will be slightly easier on the wallet.

Art and music have always been an integral part of the lifestyle label’s DNA, and S2A continued its noteworthy collaboration series here with a capsule of silk maxi dresses and bombers featuring prints taken from Aaron Young’s oeuvre. Fans of the artist-about-town should recognize his signature motorcycle burnout marks streaking over a tropical palm-tree backdrop. We can imagine Young’s girlfriend Laure Heriard Dubreuil turning up in one of the looks at an Art Basel Miami Beach party in December.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Etw.Vonneguet

October 17, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Daniel Vosovic

October 16, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Daniel Vosovic‘s Spring collection is inspired by the expressive, intense work of Austrian painter Egon Schiele. The designer, a new member of the CFDA Incubator program, showed a string of chartreuse chiffon dresses with a mosaic print borrowed from the artist’s early pieces, and aimed to bring Schiele’s vision to life with his Spring video, which features ballerina Isabella Boylston, a soloist with the American Ballet Theatre. “Schiele’s paintings are extremely graphic and gestural, and working with a dancer who understood movement was really the only answer. His work never seemed to be about capturing a final static pose, but more about a fleeting moment in time,” Vosovic explained. “Isabella was able to bring that energy to the collection in a fluid, elevated way.”

In line with that idea, there was a balance of fragility and functionality here. Wispy maxi skirts and sheer blouses with asymmetrical overlays hung next to tailored suiting separates with an urban sensibility. Slim, stretchy cotton trousers featured subtle mesh floating seams that looked like cracks along the kneecap and femur, while linen tweed jackets trimmed with leather had a collapsible, “S” shape, “almost as though she’s so strong, she has to slouch,” the designer pointed out. Vosovic launched his line two-and-a-half years ago now, and he’s hitting his stride. “Things are slotting into place and I feel like I can flex my muscles a bit,” he said.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Electric Feathers

October 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Convertibility and comfort have always been the modus operandi at Electric Feathers. Freewheeling designer Leana Zuniga can tie one of her signature Infinite Rope dresses at least 15 different ways and wasn’t bashful about demonstrating her creative styling skills while acting as fit model at a preview of her Spring collection. “I grew up in California changing into bathing suits in my car,” Zuniga said, expertly whipping through the various transmutations of amorphous cotton gauze pieces like “origami” pants that can convert into a jumpsuit or a dress.

Zuniga’s new video, based on Agatha Christie’s novel Evil Under the Sun and starring rocker Melissa Auf der Maur, underscores the on-trend Asian vibe of the lineup. Kimono jackets and silk capes are cinched with obi belts and paired with lampshade hats and Geta-inspired sandals. Overall, it was the simplest looks that were best. A short leather romper and a white cotton “Geisha” dress with a U-back and deep pockets stood out. “No embellishments; these clothes are yours to style. I give the customer the shape and she punctuates it,” Zuniga said.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Katie Eary

October 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Katie Eary is no shrinking violet. Nor does she design for the faint of heart: Since launching her menswear line in 2009, she’s clad her boys in everything from motocross jackets the color of radioactive goo to monster fur jackets and crocodile top hats fit for a circus ringleader in icy, icy hell. Eary has made it her practice to send a few women’s looks out at her men’s shows, and her clothes have been worn by the likes of Rihanna and Lady Gaga, so it’s not surprising that she’s decided to launch a womenswear range. The surprise is that her first collection is so (relatively) tame.

The operative word, of course, is that parenthetical “relative.” Eary’s baroque, blown-out tigerfish prints, repeated from the men’s collection, weren’t exactly sedate. Her swimwear was barely-there and her skirts were micro-short, and what with her emphasis on gold and ultra-luxe materials overall, the general impression was flash. There’s a niche for that, and Eary will make a packet if she aims to fill it. But this season, at least, she lost her nerve when it came to her silhouettes. Eary herself admitted that she was being tentative; when she presented the womenswear by appointment, she described her process as “figuring out her girl.” That’s fair enough, and Eary will find plenty of fans for her refined motorcycle jackets, executed in top-of-the-line ponyhair. She also has a real knack for making swimwear that’s insanely sexy yet somehow not crass. But she should heed the fact that womenswear has a higher bar for shock than menswear does, and you don’t cross it by applying eye-searing prints to Balenciaga-inspired bonded sweatshirts and sculpted shorts. The fashion scene doesn’t need another young designer worshipping at the altar of Ghesquière. But it could use a next Cavalli.
—Maya Singer
Runway Feed

Rodebjer

October 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Creating clothes has been Carin Rodebjer’s calling for as long as she can remember. As a student at FIT, she sold some of her first pieces at Steven Alan and The Dressing Room (an old Soho boutique). “Those were just amateur things,” she said. In 2001, no longer an amateur, she launched her namesake label, Rodebjer. Just last year, the Swedish native moved back to New York City. Adjusting to life in Manhattan was part of her inspiration for Spring. “I always hated nature when I was growing up; I lived on an island,” she said. “But when I moved to the city, I started longing for it.”

Serene images of the desert (which Rodebjer plastered on the wall of her tiny NYC studio) guided the color palette of peachy nudes and washed-out pastels, which she mixed with floral patterns and a cool scorpion motif. A watermelon-hued pencil skirt was covered in a print of the creepy-crawly creatures. As for the rest of the range, versatility was the focus. “There is a huge gap between what is shown on the catwalk and the commercial clothing that most people can afford,” she said. “These things are accessible but have deeper value.”

A tubular knit tank was paired with a set of silk shorts with a black fly print. The fit of a black pantsuit with a tuxedo jacket (one of this season’s trends) was spot-on, as were a pair of embossed leggings shown with a sweater. Those are easy wardrobe staples for all sorts of women. But the collection’s high point was something for the more daring girl: a long-sleeved top with a faux-fur panel on the shoulder and matching drop-waisted trousers. Rodebjer agreed to call that the “power suit.”
—Jessica Minkoff
Runway Feed

Jasmin Shokrian

October 12, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Jasmin Shokrian celebrated the tenth anniversary of her brand last season. So it’s only fitting that this time out, as she commenced a new decade in business, she expand her design horizons. This collection wasn’t a sea change for Shokrian, but it did see her digging deeper into the things she loves and challenging herself to incorporate some stuff she hates. There was a nice sense of tension here. As far as the “loves” go, Shokrian found several ways to elaborate her signature karate pant shape, adapting the style into a jumpsuit, skirt, and particularly good-looking knee-length shorts. She also worked up new iterations of the envelope dress construction she debuted last season; here, she made the look more skin-baring and sexy, in keeping with the collection’s overarching themes of plunging necklines and provocative cutouts. As for “hate,” it’s the word she used to describe her feelings about her palette’s two pop colors, kelly green and neon pink. Still, the pink was especially fresh-making, both as a highlighting detail and in a full garment such as a short plastic anorak. All in all, this was a typically sound effort from Shokrian and an unusually fun one.
—Maya Singer
Runway Feed

« Previous PageNext Page »