Rachel Roy

November 30, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Rachel Roy has a keen interest in developing countries, including Kenya and Haiti (she visited Port-au-Prince last year to brainstorm entrepreneurial ideas with local women), and she articulated that with her latest pre-fall collection, which combined influences from those cultures with the designer’s urban sensibility. A quilted, cropped jacket came in a batik-inspired print, for example, while a fluid black dress with a handkerchief hemline was embellished with gold mirrored plates. Aside from such artisanal touches, what stood out in this lineup were Roy’s office-appropriate (for the non-corporate job) alternatives to the suit. Wide-leg silk trousers paired effortlessly with shrunken blazers that had slightly exaggerated shoulders. A leather topcoat with a marbleized effect and wool insets can be worn with matching skinny pants for a head-to-toe look. Gesturing at a slinky metallic knit pullover, the designer explained that she wants women to toss on a sweater just like they would a T-shirt. Elevating the everyday staple is exactly what Roy does best.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Apiece Apart

November 16, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

When Starr Hout and Laura Cramer put Apiece Apart on hiatus a year and a half ago, they hit the brakes on a brand that was just picking up speed. The concept of Apiece Apart was that it was a modular wardrobe: Cramer and Hout made aggressively simple clothes—elegant, adaptable, and ageless—that were intended to be mixed and matched through seasons and years. Pretty much any woman could find something to love in the line, and in fact, their clothes may have been too universal for their own good. Now, with new backing in place, Cramer and Hout have returned with a collection that feels significantly more specific, while still maintaining the brand’s original blank-canvas appeal.

On the whole, the silhouettes felt more youthful and the vibe more casual this time out. There was an emphasis on crop tops and halter dresses and skirts and trousers with a bit of slouch. The hint of volume even in simple tees gave the lineup a feeling of lightness; likewise, the touch of drape to fitted silhouettes, like high-waist pencil skirts, conveyed a sense of ease. As in previous seasons, the palette was winningly offbeat, an intuitive mix of whites and sand tones, buttercup yellow and a range of Indian pinks, plus forceful indigo blue that came off strongest in their Japanese stripes and block prints. The fabric mix was eclectic as well, moving between earthy burlaps and technical materials with a crisp yet relaxed hand. The clothes here still felt mutable—with very few exceptions, you could wear all these looks to the office, out to dinner with your boyfriend and your potential future in-laws, or to the Brooklyn Flea. There’s something deeply “appropriate” about the Apiece Apart aesthetic, which goes to the brand ethos of creating clothes that just plain work. Cramer and Hout are those rare designers who mean it when they say they want women to wear their clothes, and not the other way around.
—Maya Singer
Runway Feed

Tiit

November 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
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Kenneth Cole Collection

November 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Kenneth Cole has always struck a balance with clothes and accessories that are down-to-earth yet ready to rise to an occasion. Last season, he upped the ante by launching a higher-end “Collection” line targeted at a more discerning customer, and for Spring, the designer pushed things forward by bringing in consulting creative director Kobi Halperin.

The new lineup has a nomadic theme, and you could detect a North African influence in artisanal embellishments like hand-painted studs and burnished metalwork. Earthy materials including damask, raffia, and linen underscored the vibe. But this being street-savvy Kenneth Cole, the aforementioned linen was coated to look and feel like leather, with results that were more city than Sahara.

Cole adhered to a primarily black and white color palette with flashes of gold mixed in. “I’ve always been more comfortable in black, in the shadows,” he told Style.com. Still, he maintained a lightness with asymmetric, sheer chiffon pieces, and promoted a more unstructured, layered silhouette with soft leather vests that spilled open and long shorts paired with on-trend, to-the-knee sandals. Other accessories like iPad shoulder bags and metallic python-print clutches kept the message modern.

On the boys’ side, hand-painted moto jackets and relaxed Bermuda pants maintained the lineup’s overall lived-in, utilitarian feel. Cole is planning to upgrade to a runway show in February, and judging by this strong outing, we’d say the Collection is ready for the main stage.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Et Momonakia

November 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Anrealage

November 12, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Nozomi Ishiguro Tambourine

November 11, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

JNBY

November 10, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

Rogan

November 9, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

“In my heart of hearts, I’ve always believed in women who can wear men’s clothing,” Rogan Gregory said at a preview of his Spring collection. Sure enough, the lineup tweaked workwear basics for the XY set just enough to give them a tomboyish sensuality. Uniforma Chromata was the theme, and there was an everyday, interchangeable ease to pieces like distressed cutoffs and a railroad stripe denim shorts suit with whipstitch detailing. The aforementioned matching set was ultra-worn-in, as though it had already been washed and hung out to dry at least 20 times. Ditto goes for the slubby henleys, hoodies, and baja tops, each of which was as soft as your favorite blanket.

A lot of effort goes into making threads as calculatedly effortless as these. Gregory continues to keep all of his sourcing and production environmentally friendly and can wax poetic on the differences between right-hand versus left-hand twill—he uses left, for the record, which is apparently way cooler.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Whiz Limited

November 8, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

We’re posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss Tommy Ton’s street-style shots.
Runway Feed

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