Ralph Lauren

January 31, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Gant by Michael Bastian

January 30, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Carin Wester

January 29, 2013 by  
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We’re posting runway pictures from Stockholm Fashion Week for the first time. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don’t miss our street-style coverage.
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Mugler

January 28, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

“Easy and cute” are not words we ever thought we’d hear Nicola Formichetti utter in regards to his Mugler collection, but nearly two years in, the creative director and his design partner, Sébastien Peigné, have learned a lot about customers, and how big a part relatability plays in making a sale. There was still something futuristic going on in the label’s first-ever pre-fall collection. Maybe it was just more down-to-earth.

It was certainly far-ranging. Formichetti mentioned the sixties, the eighties, and the nineties (both Lady Miss Kier’s nineties and Kurt Cobain’s). That contributed to the something-for-everyone feeling: proper skirtsuits in a novelty wool from Japan, separates in a psychedelic print from Mugler’s archives, and furs in colors that “look like you can eat them,” as well as the pointy-shouldered jackets, perfectos, and body-conscious dresses they’ve been doing since the beginning.

Formichetti said they’re working on the Fall collection, and “feeling the sweet vibe.” Before the show, he’ll be in New York to promote Mugler’s new bag range. The star of the collection is the Naboo; his fans will be pleased to note that it’s got his sci-fi stamp all over it.
—Nicole Phelps
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Lacoste

January 27, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Saint Laurent

January 26, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Hedi Slimane set up his new Saint Laurent collection in a cavernous second-floor space at the Grand Palais last night, at the tail end of the Couture shows. Not all brands can be bothered to create a sense of occasion when it comes to pre-fall. The season has turned into a two-month-long slog of showroom appointments. Slimane deserves some credit for finally sending it out in style.

According to his press representatives, the designer conceived the collection as a rock star’s wardrobe. Not unlike his menswear show of a few days ago, it was unapologetically young, with an emphasis on the casual. The floor-sweeping capes of his Spring debut were out, and leather pelmet minis—more belt than skirt—were in. On the sweeter side of the story, Peter Pan-collared, sixties-ish minidresses had a schoolgirl vibe, even if they weren’t that innocent in black-on-black. Blue jeans, fringed leather jackets, shrunken blazers with elbow patches, and toggle coats rounded out the offerings.

All of it was polished, but only the pantsuits and the smokings—skinny and scalpel-sharp, as is the Slimane way—seemed to connect overtly with the house’s legacy. What kind of role heritage will play in the new Saint Laurent is very much an open question. Whether or not its past—which means so much to France—should be part of its future will be debated forever. To this editor, luxed-up basics like the tailoring (less so the schoolgirl stuff) seem like a smart foundation upon which to rebuild a brand.
—Nicole Phelps
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Gabriele Colangelo

January 25, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Gabriele Colangelo is a young—by Milan’s standards—designer who hasn’t been able to gain a foothold in the American market, despite innovative fabrics and a real finesse with cut. Recently, he’s gained a shareholder in the form of Pattern Torino, which produces pieces for the likes of Tom Ford and Burberry, among other top-of-the-food-chain brands, and he’s hoping the new partnership will set him on his way to a new beginning.

His pre-fall collection looked especially fine, with clean, precise tailoring (if perhaps too fond a feeling for a high-tech mesh fabric) and more of the innovative fur techniques he’s known for. Colangelo comes from a family of furriers, and the stuff he does with skins, fusing them to knits without a single stitch, is pretty next-level. Again, he was sometimes guilty of overthinking a coat, adding synthetic sleeves to an otherwise ultra-luxe product. But most of the time it was easy to picture these clothes hanging in a high-end department store next to collections from his older and more experienced peers.
—Nicole Phelps
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Francesco Scognamiglio

January 24, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Maison Martin Margiela

January 23, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Armani Privé

January 22, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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