Jonathan Saunders

January 11, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Jonathan Saunders‘ generation of London designers has risen to fame on a tidal wave of digital prints. Eventually, the wave will subside. Saunders, for one, has been considering what comes next. That’s not to say he’s abandoned print; there’s still plenty of it in his pre-fall lineup. But the most exciting prints weren’t really prints at all. “How do you work with color and pattern, but add depth?” he asked himself. The answer: laser-cut ocher flowers heat-transferred onto a sleeveless cobalt dress. It was so gorgeous it practically vibrated.

Saunders is known for his feminine designs, but he’s diversifying in this area, too. Having noticed that his friends are wearing a skinny pencil skirt with a boxy sweater, he borrowed a few silhouettes from his men’s collection for this lineup. An indication that he’ll be loosening things up even more for Fall: He said he’s been spending a lot of time looking at the demonstrative brushstrokes of Francis Bacon.
—Nicole Phelps
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Kenzo

January 10, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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E. Tautz

January 9, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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E. Tautz

January 9, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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James Long

January 8, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Richard Nicoll

January 7, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Thakoon Addition

January 6, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Thakoon Panichgul took his signature line in an elegant direction for pre-fall. His less expensive Addition line, by contrast, has more of a tomboy vibe, the prime example being a marled gray wool heavy-gauge sweater that fastens up the back worn with matching drawstring-waist jogging pants. It doesn’t get more chillaxed than that.

Where his main collection was focused on dresses, the emphasis here was separates, sometimes with the same sense of quirk as that sweatsuit (see the shorts set whipped up in plaid fleece). More often than not, though, these pieces delivered a hefty dose of chic. “I love leopard, but not a cougar-y leopard,” he said, showing off a cocoon coat in an understated black-on-gray version of the familiar cat print. A classic mac was elevated with leather insets. In fact, leather made many appearances, as patchwork on denim jackets and pants, trimming the collar of an A-line poplin tunic, or full-on in the form of a red strapless dress. “Customers feel like they’re getting a lot of value for the price,” he said, explaining the uptick. Value is an idea that’s not lost on Panichgul. That leopard coat comes with a removable lapel—meaning that if you buy it, you get two looks for the price of one.
—Nicole Phelps
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Thakoon

January 5, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

“What is elegance?” is a question that’s been on Thakoon Panichgul’s mind of late. “It’s been all about the street, about being edgy and cool,” he said at his presentation yesterday. “I’m so sick of street.” Panichgul has never been a black leather and studs kind of designer, so his new collection doesn’t so much signify a change in direction as it does suggest a solidifying of his signatures.


The dress, first and foremost. For pre-fall, it’s most often A-line, be it in white cotton poplin or hot pink leather. Otherwise, it’s artfully draped. For day, he chose a gray men’s suiting fabric, and for evening, black silk, the bodice of which he quilted, giving the strapless number its slinky form. Prints are another Thakoon calling card. The budding cotton print of a dirndl skirt was paired with a knitted and striped Mongolian lamb sweater (more edgy than elegant, but fabulous nonetheless). An oversize blue and white crochet print got the mix-and-match treatment as well, accompanied by a Mongolian lamb vest and a pink pencil skirt.


Coats had cocoonlike shapes that seemed to nod ever so slightly in the direction of Cristobal Balenciaga. If you want to go elegant, there’s no better place to look. On the other hand, his clever ribbed knit sweaters with the lace insets were 100 percent modern.
—Nicole Phelps
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Robert Rodriguez

January 4, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Simple things often drive creativity—at least, they do for Robert Rodriguez. “I was sitting in my studio, and I saw a pile of black shopping bags,” he said at a preview of his pre-fall collection, “and I just started cutting them into different shapes and silhouettes.” The cutouts lent themselves to a series of color-blocked pieces, like a body-con long-sleeve dress in a scuba fabric, a French-blue shirt with a full-front zipper, and a midweight jacket with a detachable hood. The hooded topper was one of the range’s highlights; a white leather moto jacket with grommet-covered sleeves was another.

“I was really in the mood for shopping, so I tried to design a current collection that girls will want to buy and wear,” Rodriguez added. This editor was eyeing a pair of loose-fitting leather track pants with zipper details and a slouchy gray and black suit that brought a laid-back coolness to officewear. The designer also had several ruffle miniskirts and high-waisted leather shorts on hand, alongside a sleek knee-grazing black dress with sexy cutouts. Not bad for an afternoon spent working with a pair of scissors and a pile of shopping bags.
—Jessica Minkoff
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Christopher Kane

January 3, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Now that Christopher Kane has shed his outside obligations, his focus on his own brand has intensified. First fruit of the new focus: his first pre-fall collection. And what a way to start! Kane isn’t one of those designers who uses a pre-collection as a test for the upcoming season. Instead, he’ll resuscitate old ideas that didn’t make it into the main line (here, there were some revisited prints) or refer back to favorite shapes and fabrics. It’s a smart move, because Kane is coming up with so many ideas for each collection that it takes more than one season to truly come to grips with them. Spring’s monster mash came ’round again, this time with Dracula and the Creature From the Black Lagoon on T-shirts, and the specter of the Werewolf lurking behind shredded denims and refined dresses with patches of silk thread designed to fray at the touch of a claw. “I like the look of things worn in,” said Kane, knowing full well it will be a triumph to translate such a notion at retail.

Kane has always been a master of the macabre and here, beyond the trad monsters of Hammer horror movies, he was equally tuned in to monsters of the mind. There was a creepy old Hollywood vibe, like Norma Desmond or Baby Jane holed up in their shadowy mansions on Sunset Boulevard. Maybe it was the combinations of tulle and velvet, or those unsettling little details that Kane is so good at. Gazing upon a long skirt in a gray floral print with a weird splash of fluoro, the designer shuddered. “Long and floral freaks me out.” He topped that skirt with a sweater in chenille with the greasy nocturnal luminosity of a black panther. The incontrovertible truth is that these excursions into the vaguely unacceptable are what give Kane’s clothes their irresistibly eldritch glamour. A bustier dress in a jaguar-printed goatskin trembled on the brink of a taste so bad it was have-to-have-it good. (There were slip-ons to match.) Swarovski’s contribution to the collection—crystal necklaces mimicking DNA’s double helix—underscored the fact that Kane is generating new fashion lifeforms. Dr Frankenstein, I presume.
—Tim Blanks
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