Olympia Le-Tan

February 28, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Mugler

February 27, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Julien David

February 26, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Gianfranco Ferré

February 25, 2013 by  
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Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron’s collection for Gianfranco Ferré today looked uncannily like a Haider Ackermann show. That’s partly because Ackermann’s flourishes—popped lapels; big, looping obi-style belts; jackets tucked into pants—owe a debt to Ferré’s own. Since the Italian designer’s death, the house has struggled to find its way, and in the meantime, another label has gone and taken its thunder. The unfairness of that probably keeps Piaggi and Citron up at night. Admittedly, the wiseness of their approach this season, with Ackermann so much in the fashion spotlight, is debatable.

Still, it was clear from the beginning that the designers were feeling confident; this being the first time that they’ve presented outside of Ferré’s headquarters. If the collection wasn’t exactly the “new start” they billed it as, they’ve at least loosened up a bit. In the case of one halter top—a glorified scarf, really—they loosened up too much. No one wants to worry about her breasts popping out of her eveningwear. But other pieces had the right kind of drama; among them: an elongated smoking jacket with satin revers, a soft white blouse with bat-wing sleeves tucked into double-waistband pants, and a long sleeveless dress with a high slit worn with one of their croc obi belts.
—Nicole Phelps
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Marco de Vincenzo

February 24, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Marco de Vincenzo had reason to be in an upbeat mood backstage. The designer has acquired a silent partner, he said, and the new situation meant that he could get his hands on fabrics not previously available to him. It made for a much richer collection than his Spring outing.

One of the few young designers to emerge in Milan in the last five years, de Vincenzo has always had a thing for fabrics. Here, he went to town with leather, knife-pleating it into a coat with herringbone lapels and sleeves or a dress with a ruched silk neckline. Those erred a bit on the heavy side. Employing the same techniques on a marble-print silk, he came up with some charming dresses and top-skirt combos. Rome, his hometown, is famous for marble, and he’s often tried to reproduce its swirling designs on his clothes. It looked a bit literal as diamonds of duchesse jacquard recessed into overthought jackets made from sheepskin and alpaca. Better were his trim, flared-hem coats, as well as a sweatshirt and pencil skirt, in what looked like felted wool with a stone pattern. Rounding out the collection was some clever ribbed knitwear in brights like lime green and shocking pink. Clever because they brought his pleating idea full circle, and also because they’ll be an affordable way for shoppers to buy into his label.
—Nicole Phelps
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Marco de Vincenzo

February 24, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Marco de Vincenzo had reason to be in an upbeat mood backstage. The designer has acquired a silent partner, he said, and the new situation meant that he could get his hands on fabrics not previously available to him. It made for a much richer collection than his Spring outing.

One of the few young designers to emerge in Milan in the last five years, de Vincenzo has always had a thing for fabrics. Here, he went to town with leather, knife-pleating it into a coat with herringbone lapels and sleeves or a dress with a ruched silk neckline. Those erred a bit on the heavy side. Employing the same techniques on a marble-print silk, he came up with some charming dresses and top-skirt combos. Rome, his hometown, is famous for marble, and he’s often tried to reproduce its swirling designs on his clothes. It looked a bit literal as diamonds of duchesse jacquard recessed into overthought jackets made from sheepskin and alpaca. Better were his trim, flared-hem coats, as well as a sweatshirt and pencil skirt, in what looked like felted wool with a stone pattern. Rounding out the collection was some clever ribbed knitwear in brights like lime green and shocking pink. Clever because they brought his pleating idea full circle, and also because they’ll be an affordable way for shoppers to buy into his label.
—Nicole Phelps
Runway Feed

Aquilano.Rimondi

February 23, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

It was a bit of a bumpy trip down the rabbit hole for Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi tonight. Alice in Wonderland was their starting point for Fall, but even leavened with some menswear tweeds, all those Queen of Hearts jacquards landed with a bit of a thud. There’s little quibbling with their technique. The skirts on a pair of sheaths were constructed in such a way that the pocket flaps created a heart shape—impressive stuff. Aquilano and Rimondi hold the mid-century glory days of Italy’s alta moda in the highest regard. The issue is that reverence can sometimes blind them to what’s modern. This collection, like many in Milan this week, had a strong connection to the 1940s: hourglass shapes, accentuated shoulders, men’s oversize jackets belted on top of pencil skirts. Rendered in rich, couture fabrics, the results could turn stuffy.

The designers have it in them to think along lighter lines—click through their Spring 2012 show if you need proof—but for the most part that wasn’t in the cards here. Among the exceptions were a belted coat that, while elaborately embroidered in a grid of studs and squares of sequins, didn’t feel heavy, and simpler outerwear like a navy blue officer’s coat with bordeaux velvet trim or an egg-shape jacket with bands of chinchilla down both arms.
—Nicole Phelps
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Gabriele Colangelo

February 22, 2013 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Ports 1961

February 21, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Francesco Scognamiglio

February 20, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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