Off-White

June 30, 2014 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Virgil Abloh, the multitalented ambassador of youth culture, has finally infiltrated the world of fashion. His brand Off-White started as a step in the evolution of his vision for elevated streetwear, and is now a fully developed collection with an atelier up and running in Milan. Abloh is, in his mind, a shepherd. His mission: To “carry kids down the path of more informed streetwear, a streetwear that is more sophisticated but still has the signifying details of classic.”

That is exactly what Abloh offered up for the Spring/Summer 2015 collection. The range is overflowing with ideas, mostly centered around the world of a street-savvy beach bum. Layering is key to the Off-White look: The collection’s high notes involve T-shirts and shorts as top layers; elongated mesh skirts; ponchos; and striking red, black, and white monochrome ensembles. The thicker plastisol screen-printing techniques that have been popular for the last few years—used for Abloh’s old Pyrex wears as well as previous Off-White collections—have been swapped out for softer, less perfect graphics, often appearing near hems on shirts and pants. Jeans were cut long and tapered, a fit reminiscent of Hedi Slimane’s coveted Dior Homme denim circa 2005. Rider jackets in black and ready leather and neoprene were cool enough to be must-haves for the season.

With this effort, Abloh has proven that he has an eye for color and a keen sense of how a full collection is put together, but he’s limited by his adherence to familiar ideas, relying on a few streetwear tropes that are ready to be retired—crotch prints, sweatpants, military patches. Paint splatters and fringe distressing aren’t quite convincing enough to portray the Baja-surf culture vibe Abloh’s attempting to capture.

Surely Abloh’s is a very active mind, with the potential to have influence greater than some of the very large, old fashion houses he now resides with in Milan. He made his name pushing the boundaries for what T-shirts and hoodies can be, but now that he’s in Milan bumping elbows with Prada and Gucci, he’ll have to start taking even bigger risks to stand out.
—Noah Johnson
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Sacai Luck

June 29, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Wooyoungmi

June 28, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Ports 1961

June 27, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Véronique Leroy

June 26, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Talbot Runhof

June 25, 2014 by  
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Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof often draw inspiration from history. This season, the Talbot Runhof designers referenced Paris’ famed Grand Palais and its magnificent interior. “We sat for hours and studied the way light beamed through the thousands of beveled windowpanes onto the painted floors, which were recently restored to their original composition,” said Talbot at a Resort preview. Citing the floors’ specific Reseda shade of green, the duo incorporated the minty hue throughout their new collection. They featured the color on cocktail looks, including a standout embellished silk crepe tunic boasting a cape-like train in back that paired nicely with matching cropped trousers. The label has been ramping up its daytime offerings and separates, and continued to deliver on that here. Cute crop tops and shifts came splashed with pastel Art Nouveau prints that echoed the Palais’ geometric framework and gave off a slight Palm Beach vibe. Elsewhere, the designers revisited signature sparkly tweed, showing bouclé slip-on sneakers that had modern appeal. “It feels so much more accessible,” they said of the sporty footwear. Runhof joked, “We would love to completely get rid of dresses,” but eveningwear remains the brand’s best-selling category, and so there were plenty of frocks with draping, including a strapless pink bustier gown with a bubble-shaped, high-low hemline that felt fresh in embossed cotton piqué and a mixed-material maxi style combining a Tetris-like pattern with “oxidized” silk and three different kinds of lace.
—Brittany Adams
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Mother of Pearl

June 24, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Moncler Gamme Bleu

June 23, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Antonio Marras

June 22, 2014 by  
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Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Ter et Bantine

June 21, 2014 by  
Filed under Fashion News

If there’s one thing that Ter et Bantine has never been able to resist, it’s oversize, architectural shapes. Manuela Arcari opened her new Resort lookbook with a titanic, tent-like maxi dress in safety-orange silk that was certainly statement making, but it felt a tad excessive in a season when designers have been bringing silhouettes back to the body. False start aside, the designer had other fresh proposals up her sleeve. She emphasized color more than usual this time around, energizing the predominantly earth-tone palette with vibrant pops of grass green, violet, lipstick red, and chartreuse. A winning concept here was updating sporty pieces such as windbreakers and utility parkas in gauzy organza. Equally modern was an easy tank gown cut from a spongy technical mesh, which featured a self-tying sash around the waist. Elsewhere, Arcari channeled a subtle Eastern sensibility with trapunto-stitched obi belts, and incorporated ethnic-inspired embroideries and patterned jacquards into shapely shifts and pencil skirts. Retailers, meanwhile, will gravitate toward the on-trend polka dots appliquéd onto a diaphanous chiffon tiered frock.
—Brittany Adams
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