Rag & Bone

July 11, 2014 by  
Filed under Fashion News

It’s hard to imagine a person who wouldn’t look right in Rag & Bone. That’s exactly the point designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville made with their all-in-one photo exhibition/lookbook/collection presentation. For the men’s Spring 2015 outing, they recruited people of all shapes and sizes—a pro basketball player, a stand-up comedian, a guy who makes perfume, the proprietor of a local bar, men and women, old and young—and the whole cast did the clothes as much justice as any model could. “We made a lot of points about the versatility of the clothes and the individuality of Rag & Bone,” said Wainwright. “How one piece of clothing can be worn many different ways by many different people.”

Rag & Bone’s men’s line, now ten years old, isn’t known for creating new challenges for a guy’s wardrobe. The duo makes exceptionally easy-to-wear clothes with an emphasis on comfort, subtle detailing, and safe fits. This collection wasn’t a departure by any means, but it did shine a new light on the brand’s appeal.

Forgoing the preciousness of a cohesively themed collection, this was a loosely curated assemblage of nearly perfect individual pieces. Best in show was the outerwear—a fishtail parka in a high-tech sailcloth infused with fiberglass, a replica-quality bomber in onion quilted nylon, a moleskin overcoat that could have been from any one of your favorite Belgian designers. Denim—the category on which the house of Rag & Bone is built—was given a worn-in look; a longer rise; a darted and tapered leg; and a cropped, raw-finished hem. The effect wasn’t merely an updated classic, it was a total re-engineering, and to telling effect. Tops were long and languid, mostly stripped of the extraneous details we’ve come to expect.

Wainwright and Neville didn’t present a new vision for Rag & Bone here. They presented what felt like a reaction to fashion’s adoration of conceptual design, and a compelling case for interesting clothing that people actually want to wear. “Some people look for fashion and they look for art and they look for things that are completely new, and I think that’s fantastic,” said Wainwright. “But at the end of the day, if you can’t wear half of it, what’s the point?”
—Noah Johnson
Runway Feed

Rag & Bone

July 31, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Rag & Bone Fall collections, presented on the runway in New York, tend to play up the sartorial aspect of the young brand’s heritage. The Spring collection, shown in their ever-expanding offices, favors sport. If whiplash is the occasional result for the editors, it’s hard to imagine that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright need to worry too much about that. Their empire is on the expansion path, and they’ve earned the right to do just as they please.

“We wanted to twist the familiar,” Wainwright said. So they did. Working with a new stylist, Jay Massacret, they shot their new collection on skaters in a skate park not far from their Meatpacking District digs. The clothes themselves had a motocross, rather than skateboarding, bent. Nylon cycling pants came in flashy primary-color blocks and, for more wearable effect, in black and navy. Wainwright pointed out that the latter, which looked more modern, actually harked back to the styles of an earlier day. So did the wide-leg shorts based on those the British Army issued to soldiers during World War II. Nylon parkas and a digitized map print (also knit into intarsias) picked up the military theme. Though military and motocross meet in the desert, by this point the designers might’ve taken a twist too many. The mash-up of influences and inspirations left assembled looks a little light on what we’ve come to think of as classic Rag & Bone.

Still, there’s Fall for that, and whatever new twist that brings. Will it be back to English tailoring? Consider only this: Last week, the ribbon was cut on the label’s first London store, their biggest yet. Wainwright and Neville hopped a plane to check it out and will be back to toast it with a bash for London’s women’s fashion week. Then again, an L.A. shop’s in the works as well.
—Matthew Schneier
Runway Feed