Versus Versace J.W. Anderson Collection

May 16, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

When it was announced a few months ago that Jonathan Anderson would be designing a capsule collection for Versus, the natural reaction was befuddlement. It was hard to imagine two brands with more opposed aesthetics: Whereas Donatella Versace’s Versus signature was exuberantly sexy, where’s-the-party-at clothes, J.W. Anderson traffics in a look that’s sculptural, irony-laced, and cool, as in cold. Anderson is also, and not incidentally, a big believer in androgynous clothes. Suffice it to say, that’s never been Donatella’s shtick.

And thus it was a genuine surprise, at tonight’s extravaganza launching the collab, which featured performances by Maxwell, Grimes, and the rapper Angel Haze, to see how much these brands had to say to each other. Speaking backstage before the event, Versace and Anderson talked of their work together as an ongoing dialogue; Anderson, for his part, pointed out that Versace pushed him to create sexier, more womanly shapes, while Versace noted that Anderson was very “loyal” to the Versus codes. That made the dialogue sound rather one-sided. But on the runway, Anderson’s point of view somewhat carried the day. People familiar with his oeuvre had no trouble spotting Anderson in the very cool trousers with slashed, peekaboo waistbands, or in the band fastening of an asymmetrical blazer, or in the bright, apron-style knits shown with or without accenting sprays of black lace. The fact that all the aforementioned pieces were shown for both men and women, without much adaptation, was also irreducibly Andersonian.

The vibe, though, felt very Versus. Anderson’s connection to the brand’s nineties-ness is genuine, and his reinterpretation felt very grounded in the attitude of that era. He also seemed to have tapped in to his inner club kid: If Anderson’s own Fall ’13 collection had a medicated air, these clothes conjured a different kind of pilled-up aura. Rave night at the sanatorium, what an idea.

See photos of the Versus Versace collection ›
—Maya Singer
Runway Feed

Calvin Klein Collection

December 6, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Monasticism and sensuality. That’s an unlikely combination, but it’s one that’s always turned Francisco Costa on, and he delivered on both fronts with a pre-fall collection that was at once covered-up (we can confidently say we’ve never seen sheared mink dickies until now) and provocative. The provocation came not only courtesy of the deep-V plunge of a leather tunic and thigh-high slits on narrow, below-the-knee skirts, but also via unusual fabric choices, like the rubberized vinyl of a trenchcoat in a color that Crayola once would’ve called flesh.

Overall, the silhouette was quite elongated. Costa experimented with narrow shoulders, and full, almost rounded sleeves on jackets with extra-wide lapels. “The future is about new construction,” he said after the presentation. “You have to show something new. We really worked on that.” Exposed seam allowances on the exterior of the garments could’ve created a raw, unfinished feeling, but on the contrary, these clothes felt quite polished. Credit for that goes to the luxe, organic materials he juxtaposed that vinyl with—materials like alpaca, double-faced cashmere, and calf. Editors walked out into the December chill wishing for Costa’s wide-lapel, double-breasted coat in vicuna.
—Nicole Phelps
Runway Feed

Kenneth Cole Collection

November 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Kenneth Cole has always struck a balance with clothes and accessories that are down-to-earth yet ready to rise to an occasion. Last season, he upped the ante by launching a higher-end “Collection” line targeted at a more discerning customer, and for Spring, the designer pushed things forward by bringing in consulting creative director Kobi Halperin.

The new lineup has a nomadic theme, and you could detect a North African influence in artisanal embellishments like hand-painted studs and burnished metalwork. Earthy materials including damask, raffia, and linen underscored the vibe. But this being street-savvy Kenneth Cole, the aforementioned linen was coated to look and feel like leather, with results that were more city than Sahara.

Cole adhered to a primarily black and white color palette with flashes of gold mixed in. “I’ve always been more comfortable in black, in the shadows,” he told Style.com. Still, he maintained a lightness with asymmetric, sheer chiffon pieces, and promoted a more unstructured, layered silhouette with soft leather vests that spilled open and long shorts paired with on-trend, to-the-knee sandals. Other accessories like iPad shoulder bags and metallic python-print clutches kept the message modern.

On the boys’ side, hand-painted moto jackets and relaxed Bermuda pants maintained the lineup’s overall lived-in, utilitarian feel. Cole is planning to upgrade to a runway show in February, and judging by this strong outing, we’d say the Collection is ready for the main stage.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed

Kenneth Cole Collection

October 26, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Kenneth Cole has always struck a balance with clothes and accessories that are down-to-earth yet ready to rise to an occasion. Last season, he upped the ante by launching a higher-end “Collection” line targeted at a more discerning customer, and for Spring, the designer pushed things forward by bringing in consulting creative director Kobi Halperin.

The new lineup has a nomadic theme, and you could detect a North African influence in artisanal embellishments like hand-painted studs and burnished metalwork. Earthy materials including damask, raffia, and linen underscored the vibe. But this being street-savvy Kenneth Cole, the aforementioned linen was coated to look and feel like leather, with results that were more city than Sahara.

Cole adhered to a primarily black and white color palette with flashes of gold mixed in. “I’ve always been more comfortable in black, in the shadows,” he told Style.com. Still, he maintained a lightness with asymmetric, sheer chiffon pieces, and promoted a more unstructured, layered silhouette with soft leather vests that spilled open and long shorts paired with on-trend, to-the-knee sandals. Other accessories like iPad shoulder bags and metallic python-print clutches kept the message modern.

On the boys’ side, hand-painted moto jackets and relaxed Bermuda pants maintained the lineup’s overall lived-in, utilitarian feel. Cole is planning to upgrade to a runway show in February, and judging by this strong outing, we’d say the Collection is ready for the main stage.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed