Thakoon Addition

January 6, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

Thakoon Panichgul took his signature line in an elegant direction for pre-fall. His less expensive Addition line, by contrast, has more of a tomboy vibe, the prime example being a marled gray wool heavy-gauge sweater that fastens up the back worn with matching drawstring-waist jogging pants. It doesn’t get more chillaxed than that.

Where his main collection was focused on dresses, the emphasis here was separates, sometimes with the same sense of quirk as that sweatsuit (see the shorts set whipped up in plaid fleece). More often than not, though, these pieces delivered a hefty dose of chic. “I love leopard, but not a cougar-y leopard,” he said, showing off a cocoon coat in an understated black-on-gray version of the familiar cat print. A classic mac was elevated with leather insets. In fact, leather made many appearances, as patchwork on denim jackets and pants, trimming the collar of an A-line poplin tunic, or full-on in the form of a red strapless dress. “Customers feel like they’re getting a lot of value for the price,” he said, explaining the uptick. Value is an idea that’s not lost on Panichgul. That leopard coat comes with a removable lapel—meaning that if you buy it, you get two looks for the price of one.
—Nicole Phelps
Runway Feed

Thakoon

January 5, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion News

“What is elegance?” is a question that’s been on Thakoon Panichgul’s mind of late. “It’s been all about the street, about being edgy and cool,” he said at his presentation yesterday. “I’m so sick of street.” Panichgul has never been a black leather and studs kind of designer, so his new collection doesn’t so much signify a change in direction as it does suggest a solidifying of his signatures.


The dress, first and foremost. For pre-fall, it’s most often A-line, be it in white cotton poplin or hot pink leather. Otherwise, it’s artfully draped. For day, he chose a gray men’s suiting fabric, and for evening, black silk, the bodice of which he quilted, giving the strapless number its slinky form. Prints are another Thakoon calling card. The budding cotton print of a dirndl skirt was paired with a knitted and striped Mongolian lamb sweater (more edgy than elegant, but fabulous nonetheless). An oversize blue and white crochet print got the mix-and-match treatment as well, accompanied by a Mongolian lamb vest and a pink pencil skirt.


Coats had cocoonlike shapes that seemed to nod ever so slightly in the direction of Cristobal Balenciaga. If you want to go elegant, there’s no better place to look. On the other hand, his clever ribbed knit sweaters with the lace insets were 100 percent modern.
—Nicole Phelps
Runway Feed